Dahlia

Dahlia's come in many different bright colours, as dwarf varieties growing to 12 inces high, or in larger varieties growing a meter tall. They require special care, especially when lifting for winter storage. However, with minimum care, beautiful dahlia blooms will grace your garden from July until frost.

Dahlia's should be planted in a sunny location. The soil should be rich and well drained with a pH of about 6.5. Wait until all danger of frost is past before spring planting begins.
The dwarf types (about three feet tall) should be spaced about 2 feet apart and planted in garden beds. The taller larger flowered dahlias, should be spaced about three feet apart and planted in a more sheltered spot in case of severe storms. Dig the hole slightly larger than the root ball of the plant and add some compost or sphagnum peat moss into the soil. Plant them so the crowns are just above soil level. The tall, large flowered forms (five to six feet tall) may require staking.
Dahlia's tend to have shallow roots so be careful when cultivating. Around the end of June, mulch plants well with well- aged compost, aged manure, peat moss or straw. Water regularly but avoid wetting the foliage. They require a rich soil, fertilizer low in nitrogen such as 5-20-20 is good to add at least one month before planting. Monthly feedings thereafter will encourage large blooms. Do NOT fertilize after mid August.

When plants reach a height of three to four inches, pinch the terminal bud, just above the first pair of leaves. This will produce two main stems. When the flower buds are visible, begin disbudding. This will increase the bloom size of the leader bug and improve flower stem formation.
Flowers should be cut when fully opened. Early morning cuttings will provide the longest lasting flowers. As soon as you cut, plunge the stem into water.

Winter Care

Lift dahlia's after the first frost or before the end of October. Before lifting tubers, remove all ties etc. Cut the foliage off to a three to four inch stem on the roots. Because the tubers may have spread quite a distance, begin digging far enough away from the plant so as not to damage them. Make several cuts into the soil around the clump,and gently pry to raise tubers intact.
Once tubers are out of the soil, remove as much soil as possible without damaging them.Turn the tubers upside down to drain the stem and allow soil to dry. When dry, remove remainder of soil. Soil may also be washed off with water under pressure. Cut off any small roots. Place them in wooden flats, bushel baskets, or cardboard boxes that have a few inches of peat moss, sawdust or vermiculite in the bottom. Then, cover with some packing material, leaving the stems exposed. A little moisture may be added to prevent shriveling. Place in a dry 40 to 55 degree F location.
Check tubers in a few weeks and then again in January for signs of shriveling or fungal infection. Add a small amount of moisture if shriveling has occurred.
Bring tubers our of storage in March or April and locate eyes on each. With a sharp knife, divide them with a portion of the crown attached, so that each piece has an eye. If eyes are not evident, place them in moist leaf mold, peat or non-soil mix. In a week or two, eyes will appear. Put them in sterilized, non-soil or porous soil. Later transfer to the garden.